Tank Size:

A single adult Rankin’s Dragon can be kept in a 30”x18”x18” vivarium (LxWxD) or two could be kept in a 36”x18”x18” vivarium, although larger tanks should always be provided where possible. In general the Rankin’s Dragon is very sociable towards its own kind, and in the wild & in captivity they will happily live in good size groups. However in captivity it is highly recommended that male Dragons are not kept together as they can fight for dominance, particularly when a female is involved.

Substrate:

Sand This is one of the biggest debates in the reptile world, as some have claimed it to cause impaction in various species. If you want to use sand, we would recommend very fine sand such as chinchilla dust, which would be much easier to pass through the Dragon’s digestive system. Although we would only recommend this for adults, and for juveniles to either use kitchen roll or a reptile carpet (not household carpet).

Bark As the Rankin’s Dragon comes from a more forested part of Australia than its common relative the Bearded Dragon, you can use bark in its tank. We recommend bark that has been treated and approved for reptile use such as
orchid bark.

Paper Towels We recommend the use of paper towels for juvenile Dragons as it allows you to monitor them more closely. It’s also very easy to change when cleaning the enclosure.

Reptile CarpetThis is available in a range of colours, and tends to be a suitable substrate for the Dragons. The carpet can be washed in a washing machine, although it often shrinks so it is recommended that you wash it a couple of times before you cut it to fit the tanks size.

Tank Décor:

As Rankin’s Dragons like to climb, it is usually recommended to provide stable climbing media under the heat bulb so that the dragon can bask in a raised position in the tank, as it would do in the wild. Ideal climbing media includes branches, bogwood and good sized rocks that have some height to them.
 A potentially beneficial piece of décor to add would be some sort of hide for the Dragon to shelter in the shade if it wishes; this can be easily done with a curved piece of cork bark or a half log hide.

Water:

Rankin’s Dragons are well known for bathing in their water, so it is best to provide a water dish that is at least a couple of times bigger than the Dragon’s diameter, although no deeper than the dragons elbow. Water should be changed daily as the dragon will often defecate in the water, as well as leaving loose substrate and sloughs in the water.

Heating:

The Rankin’s Dragon will need a temperature gradient within its tank, with a basking spot at one end and the other end of the tank left cool. A basking temperature around 92-95˚F is required, with an average ambient temperature of 82-78˚F towards the cold end of the tank. Heating is best provided with a basking lamp (60w) as it simulates the sun allowing the Dragons to bask more naturally.

Lighting:

Ultraviolet lighting is essential for Rankin’s Dragons to replicate the sun exposure, which they would receive in the wild. As they are a diurnal desert species they will require a reptile designed 10% UV light, such as the Exo-Terra Repti Glo 10.0 or the Zoo Med Repti-Sun 10 tubes. They are best run along the length of the tank for optimum exposure. (Note: Dependent on the make, most tubes will require changing every 12 months).

Feeding:

Rankin’s Dragons are not normally fussy eaters; most will eat crickets, locusts, silkworms and mealworms. Food should be provided that is suitable for the dragon’s size. A good way to work this out is to only provide food that is no bigger than the gap between the dragon’s eyes.  They are omnivores and they require vegetables in their diet as well as insects. They have been proven to readily take lettuce (not iceberg), rocket, watercress and other dark green soft leafed vegetables. Some will take fruits such as mango and papaya, although you should avoid citrus fruits and berries.

Gut Loading This simply is the process of feeding up the prey insects at least 24 hours before feeding them to your dragon to get the maximised nutritional value out of the prey item. This can easily be done by feeding the crickets/ hoppers or mealworms a commercial cricket food or bran with a vegetable supplement for additional vitamins and moisture such as carrots/ lettuce and cabbage.

Supplements This is important to make sure your Rankin’s Dragon gets all the nutrients/ calcium it needs to grow properly. For Juveniles/ Sub-Adults you should dust the dragon’s food with a multivitamin such as Nutrobal twice a week for younger Dragons & once a week for adults.

Rankin’s Dragon Shopping List

• 30”or 36” long wooden vivarium
• 10% reptile UV tube
• Starter unit for florescent light
• Dimmerstat
• 60w clear basking spot lamp
• Spot lamp bulb holder
• 3 pin plug
• 3 core electrical cable
• Water bowl
• Food bowl
• Thermometer
• Nutrobal or similar
• Substrate (dependant on age)
• Decor (including rocks etc..)
• Food (animal specific)